Vietnam
Ho Chi Minh
Ho Chi Minh ended up not being the warm welcome to Vietnam we had hoped for. After a rather sleepless night on the nighbus, we were dropped 3km from our accomodation. We never jump straight in a Cab that is waiting for the bus, as, in our experience at least they are the Cabs most likely to try and fleece you.
We started to walk away from the bus to try to figure out the best plan. It was too far to walk, but we thought we should move a bit further from the bus area before accepting a Cab.
While we looked at directions, a driver from near the buses approached us. We said no, but he persisted and promised the use of his metre. We decided to not judge Vietnam on the other countries we had visited, so we agreed. We got into the Cab and he started the metre from 6,000 – all seemed well. However, he must have rigged his metre and within the 3km ride the price had swelled to 500,000! We were still not 100% sure on the exchange rate and thought maybe we had the amount of 0’s wrong and that this was meant to be the price. When Stu tried to give him less (around 200,000 which was still triple what it should be) he pointed at the metre and suddenly his English he had spoken before faded. We paid, unsure if we had been fleeced, or didn’t understand the currency. When we got to our accomodation and saw it was only 640 for 3 nights we realised we’d been done.
With this sour taste already in our mouths we decided it was best to go for a wander, get our bearings and get a sim card and food. Our guesthouse had good wifi and we were able to look up a few main points of interest easily before we headed out.
Day one saw us wander towards the backpackers district, a couple of long streets lined with bars, hostels and restaurants. We had read on trip advisor that Royal Saigon was a good place to hit for authentic Vietnamese food, so we headed there for a late lunch.
We ordered spring rolls both fresh and fried and two noodle dishes. The food was really good and would end up being some of the better food we would have in Vietnam. Stu also ordered his first Vietnamese ice coffee and the boy was hooked! He contemplated a second straight away but was feeling a little under the weather and figured another drink filled with condensed milk may not help the situation so he let it go for the day.
Lunch done we figured we’d best book ourselves in for the Tunnel tour. The tunnel tour goes to the most famous tunnels and a guide takes you through the story of the war. There are many tourist offices in the backpacker district, but we opted for the one across the road from where we ate lunch for pure convenience. They offered the whole tour package (bus there and back, guide and entry) for $5 american. We had been told that this was the standard price for this tour so we singed ourselves up for the day after the next as it was forecast for heavy rain until then.
The air started to feel thick and grey clouds loomed overhead, so we decided to head back to the hostel and spend the late afternoon planning our route through the rest of Vietnam.
Our afternoon of planning saw us draw a rough plan of how to spend our month in Vietnam. With the route agreed upon, we decided to skip the south and head from Ho Chi Minh directly to Hoi An, giving us over almost 4 weeks to crawl from there to Hanoi to meet our flight to China. It saw us skipping over places like Dalat and Trang An, but we felt that the type of Vietnam we were there to experience way mainly north so it was worth sacrificing those places.
We looked up buses, trains and flights to Hoi An and the train seemed to come out as the winner in relation to a balance between price and comfort. Other backpackers did say they had bused and felt this was better as it was cheaper and you still got a sleeper, so we decided to spend the next morning finding a travel agent to discuss the options further.
With rain still pouring, we opted for dinner across the road from the hostel. It saw us have a great bowl of rice noodle, meat and herbs for under $5 USD for the two of us. Full and tired, we headed home for an early bed.
Day 2
“The best laid plans of mice and men do always go awry”
The next morning I woke feeling fantastic after a very comfy, peaceful sleep. Stu however was not feeling so chirpy. As I climbed down from my bunk to say a bright good morning I found a disheveled, feverish Stu who was unable to even muster much of a smile. It seemed his bug had come back and he had spent nearly all of the night glued to the toilet.
So the plan for the day now became: Find a doctor, see what else, if anything Stu was feeling up for.
Thankfully, the guy who owned the hostel was able to point us in the direction of the closest doctor who saw expats. We thanked him and after checking Stu was up for it, we walked the 4km to the doctors.
The doctors were unable to see Stu that day, but booked him in for the next. By this point, Stu was feeling a little better and was after some comfort food so we made a V – line for Maccas and chowed down on all the naughty western food we try to avoid as often as possible in favour for local cuisine.
Maccas seemed to do the trick, and while not 100%, Stu felt well enough to do a little more exploring for the day.
We headed for a travel agent as it was directly across from Maccas and seemed like a logical next step in the day. We went in and asked if they could compare the prices of trains and buses for us, but they said they could not. Aparently the travel agencies don’t have access to the bus details. They told us however that the train was going to be 25aud each, so we figured rather than chase our tail it may just be easiest to go with that, so we grabbed a taxi and made our way across town to the train station. Once there, buying tickets was easy, you simply pressed a button on a ticketing machine for a number, waited around 20 to see a girl who then printed off your tickets. (You do need your passport for purchase). The train station was across the road from one of the big markets in town, so we figured we would walk across and have browse while Stu was still feeling well enough.
There is pretty much every kind of fake thing you could possibly want stuffed into one marketplace. Fake converses, nikes and every other type of shoe. Every kind of active wear and other outdoor goods as well as bags, hats, trinkets and more. We were there mainly to find some cheap sneakers, a quick dry shirt for Stu and hiking appropriate bottoms for me. We were spoiled for choice. We walked around to different vendors and got our haggle on. We managed to get and idea for the real price of things, but knew there was another market across town, so we held off buying just on the off chance prices were even better there.
The second market had almost identical wares and prices, but tired and not wanting to push stu too far, we headed home for dinner and an early night before the tunnels.
Day 3
Stu thankfully woke feeling much better, and an ice coffee and some sandwiches saw us ready to go. Stu had already done the tunnels before, and warned me that they were somewhat touristy. And touristy they were… buses of tourists were led in by guides, ushered to a video screening area and then led around the complex in a very formal manner. while we also followed the route, our guide was young and open minded and she was able to tell us the history of the war as someone who had grown up to understand both side of the war and was willing to discuss it.
Tunnel tour done, we headed back to town with the plan of walking to the markets for a quick shop and dinner, but to our surprise the markets were shutting. We realised that these markets must not also serve as the night ones as we had thought. A quick walk around and we found the ‘night market’. We had heard the food was good, so we decided to eat there, but the food seemed nothing special. Talking to others on our arrival back at the hostel we realised this was because we had still not been at the official night markets! make sure you check with people in the know about these things to avoid the slightly disapointing night we ended up having!
Day 4
Day four saw us once again at the markets, this time to finally make our purchases. only 40aud later and I had sneakers, a top and tights for hiking and Stu was set with a new top too. The day half done, we meandered through town once more, before making our way to the night train. Hunger saw us almost miss said train as Stu waited for the worst chicken in his life for over half an hour, but we just got on, and we were off towards Hoi An for the northern part of our adventure.
Night train blues:
As we got on the night train, we were surprised to find that we were unfortunately seated in two of only eight seats that faced towards the people opposite! And, to make matters more annoying, the old guy cross from us thought he was the class clown and made joke after joke at our expense (or so it seemed) trying to draw everyone else in.
After an hour or so he half quietened down, but seemed to feel like he should try and engage everyone in conversation at every moment. We did our best to ignore him, and settled in. It wasn’t long after we had finally relaxed that the two train conductors approached us and asked us if we wanted a sleeping cabin. Thinking they were taking us to two beds in the sleeper class that were free, we decided the extra money for that would be well worth it.
We followed the conductors to a small room that seemed to already have peoples possessions in it. Confused I sat down and asked how much. Prices double the price of our tickets, or even the sleeper class should have cost started flying. Thats when I realised, this was the conductors’ quarters and they wanted us to stay so they could make a little cash. I said no, and prices kept dropping until they were cheaper than sleeper class, but stupid me is not good at bring tricked, and regardless of a good deal or not for everyone involved, I wanted to bolt. I left, and poor Stu was made to follow, despite wanting to go through with the deal as it would have helped us out and given the conductors a little bonus for their nights work.
So there we were, back to where we had started, across from the never quite old Vietnamese guy.
Midnight came, and lights in the cabin dimmed and soon turned off. Our old man was now content in singing himself loudly to sleep. Finally asleep, he then snored. Somehow, however, Stu and I managed to fall into a kind of sleep.
4am rolled in and I woke to the sounds of laughter and lights now brightly on. It seemed our old friend had awoken, and so had the oldies across the way, and they felt 4am was the perfect time to get up, turn on light and eat breakfast while talking and joking loudly. I wrapped a scarf around my eyes and tried to sleep again. Half an hour and they seemed to have died off and decided to nap again, but left lights on. Having had enough, I got up and turned them off again, frustrated at this mans lack of social awareness.
530am saw him and his friends up and talking loudly again. Furious looks from myself and others seemed to only make him laugh louder, and I gave up on sleep and attempted to read. From then on, sleep cam in small intervals, normally when the oldies fell into a nap and allowed everyone else some peace and quiet.
Needless to say, our first night train left us feeling a little worse for wear and not too sure that we wanted to do that again for a while!